Hey Guys,

Super stoked to have my good friend Mallory from Mallory Xavier doing a guest blog post for you all today. In it she explains a bit more about what goes into creating her awesome designs and has some great thoughts on compromise and advice for anyone wanting to achieve their goals. You can see all her fantastic designs here and like her on Facebook here.

Take it away Mallory..

I am Mallory and I am the designer of Mallory Xavier – New Zealand Made Toddler Couture. I am currently in the process of sewing the pieces for my Spring/Summer 2013 collection ‘honeysuckle,’ which will be released early September. This week I am on a strict deadline to get everything complete for Saturday’s photo shoot with Linda. So between jobs on my ‘to do’ list I am going to do a little writing on my design process, and how it has changed between my first collection and this one.

My collections have always started with a fabric. The first Spring/Summer collections fabric was shell pink rayon that was not actually used in the final collection. This collection the fabric that sparked the design process is pink and white gingham that has been used to make the girls skirts and headbands. That initial fabric sets the tone. From there I draw and edit and look at images online, in books and in the world. The first Mallory Xavier collection was called ‘Berry.’ The name was decided due to the tones of the fabrics used. This years Spring/Summer collection is called ‘Honeysuckle’ and is based on the colour and shapes of the honeysuckle flowers. After designing I will begin sewing and after a few weeks will have a collection ready to have photographed.

The design process I used for this collection was quite different to that of my last. I have included a full boys range in this collection which was scary for me. I found that boys wear took a lot longer to design, because they needed to be special – something that couldn’t be purchased in any old store. I began thinking that there was not a lot of scope for boys wear but I have changed my mind. I just don’t think that boys are given many options and so boyswear is an exciting new venture for me.

A challenge that I have met is that my designs tend to naturally be architectural, and this time I wanted to embrace a softness that I’d never used before. It is hard for me to step out of my comfort zone with design, but I think it is extremely important. Gail Sheehy said “Growth demands a temporary surrender of security.” I think that’s true. A temporary surrender of security and a hell-of-a-lot-of work! Back when I was studying at Wintec I was extremely hesitant to accept critique, and to adapt designs for anyone else. While studying I could do that – I was making one off pieces for specific briefs, and being marked and judged on my personal interpretation of that brief. Now I am designing and sewing for a living, all critiques are important. When designing for others, the important thing that sticks out is ‘saleability.’ My first line was a demonstration of my taste. I didn’t design for saleability – I was still being stubborn. And though the garments did sell, the ones that sold quickly were not the ones I expected to. This year saleability has been in my mind throughout my entire design process. It is why I made my boys shirts white and not pink (like I was initially intending on doing), and why the garments this year are softer in design and much more easy and comfortable to wear.

Starting any business is a challenge. The last two years have been an emotional roller coaster. Because my new collection has not been seen yet I am both terrified and excited. I think that a willingness to adapt, learn and ask for help are the things that have kept me going. My design process will continue to adapt and refresh and I think that it is a good thing. I believe that so long as I am being challenged in the creation of my work, then my work can remain fresh.